When I got down the road a few miles I downshifted and opened up the throttle. I have tried and tried, but it won’t do it!!!! Ivan’s way of getting rid of the decel fuel cut has totally eliminated any exhaust popping. I have rode 150 miles with the new ECU and I have not been able to get it to pop at all. I could occasionally make my bikes exhaust pop when shifting between 1st and 2nd gear if I shifted above 3000 rpm. Now all of the torque I lost is back!!!!! No matter what map I tried, or how I tuned it, I could never get it to run as good as the stock pipe at low rpm. When I installed my Roadhouse slip on, the main thing I noticed was loss in torque below 2300 rpm. I also used Ivan’s air filter kit.Īs soon as I started the bike and drove down the road, I noticed a immediate increase in torque below 2300 RPM. The next step is setting the opening and closing points in the power commander software, but this is very simple, and Ivan has great instructions. The voltage on the sensor needs to be set when the engine is at normal operating temperature, but it only needs to be set once, and will never need to be touched again. The rear bolt on the sensor is harder to get at, and I ended up loosening the fuel tank so I could lift it a few inches, and I was able to get to the rear bolt easier. It is not difficult at all, but it does take some time to get it perfect, and you will definitely need to have some patience when doing this.

The installation of the ECU is pretty simple, however, Ivan’s instructions detail that you need to set the voltage on the throttle position sensor.

So far the experience has been excellent. I received it on Monday and installed it Monday night. I sent him my ECU, and the next day Ivan called me and got all my shipping and payment info, and it was mailed to me the next day. (more relaxed gear changes and throttle modulation at highway speeds)įree upgrades when/if we make improvements.ĩ) Return your ecu back to stock at no charge for any reason. (some tests shown below at 6000)ĥ) Anything that compromises performance and/or driveability is eliminated.ħ) Reduced heavy engine braking on decel above 2500 rpm. (the ones that cannot be fixed with an external fuel tuner)Ī) Gets rid of poor throttle transitions from closed throttle.ī) Gets rid of annoying popping and banging during decel and also when re-applying the throttle from closed.Ĭ) Throttle modulation is noticably improved over what can be achieved with a fuel tuner alone.ĭ) Feels buttery smooth upon re-application from closed throttle.Ī) Gets rid of part throttle timing retarder for more response and less vibration when cruising and moderate acceleration.ī) Gets rid of high rpm timing retarder allowing the engine to make power for longer.Ĭ) Set timing for maximium power and driveability across the entire rpm range & all throttle positionsĤ) Raise rev-limit in all gears to 5850 rpm. ( This is directly from his website)ġ) Fix all inherent fueling problems inside the ecu. Here are some of the things his ECU flash fixes. He does require a Power Commander to go along with his ECU reflash He spent a great deal of time talking to me and detailing how he reprograms the ECU and some of the problems he fixes. The first time I talked to him I could tell that he knew what he was talking about when it came to EFI systems. When I found Ivans website I was really excited and gave him a call the next day. The current fuel tuners for the stratoliner are piggy back units and are only good for adjusting the final amount of fuel going into the engine, and cannot totally eliminate exhaust popping, and are very limited as to what they control. I was really excited when I saw on another Stratoliner forum about someone being able to reprogram the stock stratoliner ecu and fix some of the fueling problems inside of the unit.

Ivan ecu flash yamaha raider